Cathedral of Saint Mother Teresa in Pristina, Kosovo

During my first visit to Pristina, my language training group got to go to the top of Cathedral of Saint Mother Teresa to enjoy a great view of the city. The cathedral was under construction at the time. Now, it is finished. I visited again with some friends to see the new interior.

wall cathedral of saint mother teresa
Rainbows and stained glass
door cathedral of saint mother teresa
I love this door.
stained glass cathedral of saint mother teresa
The church has several panels depicting Mother Teresa’s life.
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Eagle pew
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Mother Teresa
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Stained glass + beams
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Ceiling
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Pretty stained glass

According to the CIA World Factbook, 2.2% of Kosovars are Roman Catholic. The country is primarily Islamic (95.6%).

I live in a Catholic village. You can see photos I took of my local church here.

Pit Stop at Tartine, Pristina

Cafes are a big part of life here in Kosovo. (I’d love to see a report on the number of cafes per capita … there’s probably like one cafe for every five people in Kosovo. [I am making that up/exaggerating. But only a little.])

outside Tartine

Tartine is a popular breakfast place among the Peace Corps volunteers. Tartine primarily serves quiche, smoothies, and coffee.

During a low point this last winter, I remember lying in bed and scrolling through Google images of “fruit smoothies,” fantasizing about colorful, healthy drinks and feeling sorry for myself. (Pathetic.) A few weeks later, a friend introduced me to Tartine. And I got a smoothie! I also got a quiche and some coffee. ๐Ÿ™‚

breakfast quiche tartine pristina kosovo

Although cafes are a big part of the Kosovar culture, in the smaller villages (like mine), they are frequented almost exclusively by men. I’ve heard that Tartine is owned by a woman. While I don’t know if this is true, every time I have been to Tartine I have only seen women working.

inside Tartine
Inside Tartine
vignette tartine pristina kosovo
Cute decor
wall decor tartine
A wall hanging … I’ll admit, I think this is weird.

If you’d like to read about other places I frequent in Kosovo, check out this post about Sach Cafe, and the (VERY SADLY!) now-closed Sweet Bean.

July Landscape

I am doing a photo project where every month, I post a photo that captures the spirit of that month. Here is July’s photo:

July landscape.JPG

I took this from the balcony of an Airbnb in Pristina. (Which makes this the third “balcony photo” of this series.) I imagined doing more travel this summer, but it looks like my visit to the United States was my big trip for the season. I sat down with an Excel spreadsheet and figured out how many vacation days I have left. As a refresher, I went to Tirana, Albania last November (which counted as a business trip, so I did not have to use vacation time), Paris/London in December, Rome/Berlin/Budapest in April, and the U.S. in June. I have plans for a big trip this Christmas, and (hopefully) for spring break 2018. This means I only have 6 free vacation days. So, given that I only have a little time left, and that I need to save money for my bigger trips, it doesn’t look like I’ll be traveling again this summer. And I’m fine with that … there are places in Kosovo I’d like to explore, and weekend getaways in Pristina are nice.

Pristina Bazaar

A volunteer friend suggested visiting the bazaar in Pristina, so a small group of us went last week. I had no idea there was a bazaar in Pristina!

There was SO MUCH produce for sale, for prices even cheaper than what I can find in my village. (Fifty cents for a carton of strawberries, versus 1.50 Euro in my village.) You can also finds lots of other goods at the bazaar, everything from clothing and yarn, to household items, to cigarettes.

SO much produce! This was just one stall.
So delicious …
Dry goods, honey, and รงifteli (2-stringed instrument)
Wall upon wall of cigarettes
We kept waiting for a box avalanche. It didn’t happen.

As far as I know, the bazaar is open every week day. You can find it here:

 

pristina kosovo bazaar map.PNG

Fun Links (Kosovo and Albania)

Below are some links to articles I’ve enjoyed about Kosovo (and Albania).

  • Makeup is a big deal in Kosovo. Women, especially in the larger cities, tend to be much more made up than what I think is typical in the States. I got a kick out of Blonde Gypsy’sย look at beauty routines in Pristina.

    the-blonde-gypsy-arbresha-shala-studio-prishtina-kosovo-768x576
    Photo credit: Blonde Gypsy
  • Heart My Backpack posted some gorgeous photos of Pristina during her trip to Kosovo. It was also fun to read someone else’s take on the city.

    heartmybackpackkosovo
    Photo credit: Heart My Backpack
  • This great post captures 23 “Day in the Life” photos of Kosovo from around the country.

    Musliman u vremenu
    Photo credit: Admir Idrizi via rferl.org
  • I loved visiting Tirana, Albania’s capital city. It’s got a mild, Mediterranean climate, a varied history, and a gorgeous public park. (I previously wrote about its nature, history, and the city today.) So I was super excited when this article popped up on my Facebook newsfeed. It’s a great, one-day itinerary for visiting Tirana.

    one-day-in-tirana-albania-itinerary2
    Photo Credit: One Day Itinerary
  • I don’t cook much in Kosovo, for many reasons. 1) I think it would be rude not to eat with my host family. 2) I don’t like to cook often. 3) My village doesn’t have a grocery store. 4) My host family ownsย a wood-burning stove, and I have no idea how to use it. However, many of my friends like to cook, so I wanted to link to another recipe for traditional food. (I previously posted some good recipe links in this post.) In the One Day Itinerary article above, Oda was suggested as a good traditional dining spot in Tirana. I ate at Oda during my trip to Tiranaย and loved it. Fasule, a popular bean dish, was one of the dishes I ordered. I found this blog post (written by a Peace Corps Volunteer serving in Albania) that lists a simple fasule recipe (in English).

    OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA
    Photo Credit: Albania Adventure

A Walk Around Pristina, Kosovo

I’ve visited Pristina, Kosovo’s capital city, probably dozens of times now. But I tend to follow the same path through the city, sticking to streets and places I know.

I mentioned to a friend who lives in Pristina that I wanted to explore the city a bit more. She offered to take me on walk up through a part of the city I’d never seen.

We climbed a steep hill and reached a neighborhood filled with beautiful homes.

house

gate-pristina

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We ended up at a large cemetery.

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graveyard-entrance-pristina

graveyard-pristina

Many of the tombstones displayed pictures of the deceased.

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Remember last week, when I posted about cages around graves?

graveyard-pristina-kosovo

grave-kosovo

We saw a few fresh graves. I think “burying” is a loose term in this instance. It looks more like, “Here’s a body. We put some dirt on top of it.”

new-grave

We walked further.

xhamia

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Next, we came to a small park at the very top of the city.

park-pristina

When we came down from the hill, we visited the Newborn sign (which I posted about last week). Here’s what the new design looks like, in person.

newborn-new
New …
newborn-born
born

None of the letters in “Newborn” really corresponds with my name, so I decided to take a picture with the “B.” Because why not?

#Urime, #Kosovo! ๐ŸŽ‰9 years of independence. #newbornsign #pristina #newdesign ๐Ÿ‡ฝ๐Ÿ‡ฐ

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